Beyond the Runway: The Art of Haute Couture

Haute Couture, the height of fashion, showcases the aritisy and craftsmanship involved in creating customer exclusive, custom-fitted clothing.

Robert Wun Couture Spring 2023//wwd.com

Haute Couture: where art meets fashion through masterful draping, the complex variety of fabric, and the essence of embellishments. The term "Haute Couture," French for high dressmaking, has its roots in the mid-19th century. Charles Frederick Worth is celebrated as the father of this elaborate craft. It was also founded in the same era that the sewing machine was invented.

To people who are unfamiliar with Haute Couture, it may appear as simply extravagant and elaborate gowns, but its significance runs much deeper. Haute Couture is important because it not only stretches creative boundaries and influences mainstream fashion trends, but also because the symbolism and craftsmanship behind each piece carry profound meaning and power.

Pierre-Louis Pierson//Countess Castiglione, 1860s Albumen silver print from glass negative// Haute Couture The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Haute Couture comprises two distinct components: dressmaking and tailoring. In the book, "Haute Couture," Harold Koda and Richard Martin elaborate on this division, noting that "the couture house is customarily composed of two parts, one devoted to dressmaking (flou), and the other devoted to tailoring (tailleur) of suits and coats." To enhance the character of each piece, fashion houses often source embellishments externally, which are then skillfully and meticulously sewn onto the garment.

Alan Strutt (British, born 1967). Yasmin Le Bon, Palladium, London, 1997. Evening Standard, October 1997. Haute couture Fall/Winter 1997–98 collection (“La Chimère”). © Alan Strutt//thecitylife.org

Designers can't simply label themselves as a couture house, they must prove themselves. An article by Harper Bazar titled "The History of Haute Couture," notes that in 1868, designers had to earn the right to call themselves a couture house, with formal requirements later outlined in 1945.

Fashion serves as a powerful art form, with design and styling offering designers a unique way to communicate with their audience. Visionaries like Thierry Mugler masterfully channel this dialogue into their collections. Mugler's iconic La Chimère gown, from his 1997 collection, vividly conveyed his fascination with the intersection of humanity and nature. As Lifestyle Asia describes, the dress "dazzles in all colors of the rainbow, with innumerable colourful pearls, feathers, scales, real hair, and a golden corset," establishing it as one of the most extravagant and memorable pieces in haute couture history.

Robert Wun Fall 2024 Couture Collection// Fashionista.com

Another designer who speaks through their designs is Robert Wun. He masterfully utilizes storytelling through his Fall 2024 Haute Couture collection, conveying the four layers of the human body. The last 4 looks of his collection begins with a pleated dress representing the skin, followed by a deep, shiny red ensemble with textured fabric that embodies the flesh. Next, an all black jumpsuit with silver detailing symbolizes the bones, finishing in a crystal gown with beautiful colors that evoke the spirit.

Designers are artists who use fashion as a influential creative outlet. It's important to recognize that Haute Couture plays a crucial role in establishing trends that inspire the runway, which then trickle down to mainstream fast fashion brands. This relationship highlights how high-end fashion not only shapes the industry but also influences everyday style choices, making it essential for fashion enthusiasts to pay attention to the artistry behind Haute Couture.